How to get there?

By air : At the time of this update (November 2010), there is no commercial flight from Phnom Penh (or any other place in Cambodia) to Ratanakiri and vice versa.

Missionary Aviation Fellowship (MAF) has also ceased its operation of a 5-seater Cessna 206 plane on a non-regular schedule to Ratanakiri from Phnom Penh. For the last updates of its operation or possible charter flight, please contact MAF website : www.mafcambodia.org

By bus : Four companies offer bus service between Phnom Penh and Ratanakiri; namely Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, Rith Mony Transport, Ngy Ly Heng Express, and Thong Ly Transport. Departure time from Phnom Penh is 6.30 am and arrival in Ban Lung is around 5.30 pm to 6 pm. Fare 45000 riels per person.

Phnom Penh Sorya Transportation Co. Ltd. (Phnom Penh Telephone : 023-210359) operates air-conditioned 45-seater bus. The company's bus station is at southwest corner of the Central Market (P'sa Thmey) on street 217 in Phnom Penh. The bus will make some stops on the way, including stops in Kampong Cham town, and Kratie provincial town for lunch.

Rith Mony Transport runs 45-seater bus between Phnom Penh and Ratanakiri. Bus station in Phnom Penh is behind TV Chanel 3. Telephone : 089-818737

Thong Ly Transport operates a 45-seater bus. The company's bus station in Phnom Penh is north of Wat Preah Puth Meanbon on road to P'sa Depot (west of Total petrol station), Telephone : 092-278936 012-274620.

Ngy Ly Heng Express also runs a daily 45-seater bus service between Phnom Penh and Ratanakiri. The bus station is near Doemko market. Telephone 012-724096.

All the above bus will stop in Kampong Cham to drop and pick up passengers, and for lunch in Kratie town.

This is the most distant public bus service in Cambodia (covering around 600 km road) passing 4 provinces on the way that offers the most picturesque spots of the country - paddy fields, rivers (including the Mekong) and streams, towns & villages, rubber plantations, fruit orchards, hills and mountains, protected and conservation areas, forests, and so on. Feel the real things in Cambodian ways as you will be travelling with many locals. Get ready with your books for those who might be bored with the variety of scenery.

Tip : For your comfort in this long-day bus trip, when buying the ticket, tell the ticket seller to give you seat number 1,2,3, or 4 (seats in the front row) if possible as these seem to have widest legroom. Avoid seat at the back rows of the bus as it means bumpy ride and more dusty once the bus travels the road between Stung Treng and Ratanakiri - the last 140 km. Bus fares indicated above is the maximum you can find. Refuse if someone sell you more than that. And don't be surprised if you get anything cheaper as competition is quite fierce now among the 4 companies.

By van : Many van companies operate regular van services (14 seater) between Phnom Penh and Ratanakiri : some of them are Bona Transportation (Tel 012-923290). and Bun Rung Transport (Tel 012-684041). Departure time from Phnom Penh is at 6.30 am and fare 45000-50000 riels. 9-10 hours. Ask your guesthouse/hotel to assist in the booking. The van companies may be able to pick you up from hotel if arranged in advance.

By taxi : Direct Phnom Penh-Ratanakiri taxi (and vice versa) is virtually unavailable now. Most of the former taxi drivers have gone for the van!

By bus with overnight stop in Kratie or Stung Treng provinces : For those who want to break the journey between Phnom Penh and Ratanakiri, and see attractions on the way, making stop and spending a night (or nights) in Kratie or Stung Treng is recommended.

Bus to Kratie : Take a morning bus of the above 4 companies to Kratie . The bus to Kratie should arrive around 1-2 pm, so you will have time to see the dolphins at Kampi viewing site (just about 13 km north of Kratie town). If you want to continue by bus to Ratanakiri the next day, make sure you buy the ticket as soon as you arrive in Kratie.. The (Phnom Penh-Ratanakiri) bus will normally arrive, drop passengers in Kratie town, and depart Kratie for Ratanakiri around noon, so you will have about half a day to see more in Kratie, including a stroll on the Mekong riverside.

Bus to Stung Treng : will arrive Stung Treng town at around 3-3.30 pm. Take a short motorbike ride just north of town on the airport road to visit the Mekong Blue Project. This project helps in training women in handicraft skills, including silk weaving; and education. Available onsite is a small cafe and souvenir for sale. From Stung Treng to Ratanakiri in the next day morning, take the regular van which is parked at the bus station on the Mekong riverside. It is recommended to book seat in advance as the van may be full early.

As the road to Stung Treng is getting better, there may be more bus companies running services from Phnom Penh to Kratie and Stung Treng. Check more with your travel agents or hotels in Phnom Penh for the last minute updates.

By speed boat : At the time of this update (November 2010), there is no speedboat services between Kampong Cham and Kratie/Stung Treng.

By air : Currently, there is no air connection between the 2 cities. (There is no scheduled air service from Phnom Penh to Stung Treng either.)

By bus : You will have to hire taxi or motor bike taxi (motodup) for a 20 km ride east of Stung Treng town to O'Pongmorn intersection in order to catch the Phnom Penh-Ratanakiri bus which will pass that place in the mid-afternoon. This way is recommended for those who come from Lao and and those who miss the van in the morning departure. Tip: Rith Mony bus is so far the only company that its Phnom Penh - Ratanakiri bus stops by Stung Treng (around 3.30 pm). So if you are travelling from Lao and arriving in Stung Treng, you can connect with this bus. Approach the company's ticket counter on the riverside (near the bus station) as soon as you are in Stung Treng.

By van Van (14-seater) for Ban Lung (station on the river front) normally depart Stung Treng in the morning. Fare 25000 riels per person. Journey time from Stung Treng to Ban Lung is about 2.5 to 3 hours (in dry season) on the unpaved 147 km road. At this time of update, road between Stung Treng and Ban Lung is under construction and is more reasonable. Try to book in advance.

By bus : You can catch the Phnom Penh-Ratanakiri bus which will stop over Kratie town to drop and pick up passengers (around mid-day). Check with the bus companies' offices in town or ask your hotel.

By van : 14-seater Van departs Kratie to Ban Lung every morning (certainly like in other parts of Cambodia when it is full). Road between Kratie and Stung Treng is paved and most parts now are in good conditions. The journey takes about 5 to 6 hours between Kratie and Ban Lung on 250 km ride. Fare 30000 riels per person.

By air : You can take first morning flight of Cambodian Angkor Air to Phnom Penh. Evening flights are also available. Flight time (Siem Reap-Phnom Penh) is 45 minutes and air fare around US$70-75 (one way). You will have to spend a night in Phnom Penh to continue with overland travel the next day. For travel overland from Phnom Penh to Ratanakiri, please see above.

By boat : Speed boats leave Siem Reap dock at 07.00 a.m. and 01.00 p.m. (fare US$25.-, 5 hours). Need to stay overnight in Phnom Penh. Then see From Phnom Penh above.

By bus : Phnom Penh Sorya bus company and GST bus company now run direct buses from Siem Reap to Kampong Cham everyday. Bus departs Siem Reap at 7 am. and arrives Kampong Cham at about 12 pm. Fare USD5.-.

In Kampong Cham, you may want to spend a night here and continue the next day by catching a bus to Ratanakiri. Contact one of the four bus companies above in Kampong Cham as soon as you arrive for ticketing to Ratanakiri. Your afternoon in Kampong Cham may be filled with bicycle visiting Kho Paen Village island in the Mekong just Kampong Cham town, the Nokor Backey temple (11th century built), Phnom Pros - Phnom Srey Hills just out of town, or just relax on the Mekong river.

Through Tickets from Siem Reap to Ratanakiri in one day : Some travel agents in Siem Reap have been operating with this kind of ticket. It has been that departure from Siem Reap is at 5.30 am in the morning by 35-seater bus, with the change to bus to Ratanakiri somewhere in Kampong Cham province, and arrival in Ratanakiri at about 6 pm. And it has been smooth operation until we learned from our guests recently that things have gone uncertain, i.e. unreliability in the change of bus in Kampong Cham with the onward passengers ending up with either being put in over-crowded van or spending a night in Kampong Cham. Take this information into your consideration and double check with the travel agents when you enquire with them. Our suggestion now is take the regular bus as far as Kampong Cham and make your plan to have a night in Kampong Cham, then continue by bus to Ratanakiri the next day morning.

-Many of our guests did make successful trips from Sen Monorom (the provincial capital of Mondulkiri province) to Ban Lung. Transport was still limited to motorbike. It is more possible in the dry season. Some guests drove by themselves on the big bike (250cc up), and some rented motor bike with driver. The cost of renting bike with driver is about USD 60-65 one-way. Big obstacle is crossing the Srepok river as there is no regular ferry there. The road from Sen Monorom town to Koh Nhek district has been improved. From Koh Nhek to Srepok river (near Lomphat district town, road is muddy in rainy season and heavily sandy in dry season. From Lomphat to Ban Lung, the road is reasonable and it takes around 1 hour on 40 km road.

There are two (2) immigration check points at this border crossing : Voenkham on the Mekong river and Dong Kralor overland.

• After you cross the border check points in the Lao and Cambodian sides at Voenkham on the Mekong river, you have 2 choices : 1). Taking a small, noisy speedboat to Stung Treng. Fare is USD10 per person, or about USD50 (one-way) if you take the whole boat. It is 1 and a half hour ride that gives you the true feeling of adventure on the mighty Mekong. Take only the boat with life jacket and you MUST wear it. Be ware that the boat driver may OVER CHARGE you. The border guards (of both sides?) may demand that you pay some money as ” stamping fee” . The norm is give them a bargain before you pay. USD1.- is a best bargain according to some previous guests. 2). Taking taxi from the border (about USD30 per taxi to Stung Treng). As the Cambodian taxis usually park in the Voenkham bus/songthaew station (on the Lao side) and the Cambodia immigration is on the island in the Mekong river, you may have to make prior arrangement with the driver as you must cross the water to get your immigration stamp and then cross back to get on your taxi! (We heard that Cambodian authorities are considering moving immigration office from on the island to the same side on the main land as Lao.)

• Some visitors may cross the border at the overland Dong Kralor immigration check point. The immigration boxes of both countries are close by, but (unless you make prior arrangement) you may find it difficult to get taxi here. In fact, the Dong Kralor check point is in the middle of no where at the start of new good road right from the border to Stung Treng, unlike Voenkham that has communities & shops. It is common then that most traveller crossing this point purchased the packaged tickets either from 4000 island or Pakse to Cambodia's Ratanakiri, Stung Treng, Kratie, etc.

NOTE : If you stay in Don Det, Don Kone, or Don Kong in Siphandon, or Pakse, Laos and will continue to Stung Treng in Cambodia, you can contact travel agents to buy through ticket for the journey from one of the above island to Stung Treng town. Ask your guesthouse/hotel for more details and booking.

Please note again that a 30–day Cambodian visa is available at this crossing at USD30.-. Please have your photos ready. In other direction, Lao visa is also available.

From Stung Treng, see above.

6. From Pleiku, in Gialai province, Vietnam through the Oyadao/Le Thanh crossing

Finally, the Oyadao (in Cambodia) /Le Thanh (in Viatnam) crossing was upgraded (effective 15 Dec 2007) to international crossing, enabling foreigners other than Cambodian and Vietnamese to cross. Cambodian visas (30 days of tourist or business types) are available on arrival (USD25 and 30, respectively). Have your photos ready. Please be seriously noted that if you want to cross into Vietnam at this point you must posses Vietnamese visa in your passport as the visa on arrival in Vietnam is NOT available at this crossing.

From Pleiku town, take a public van (2 hours) or taxi (1 hour and 30 min) to reach the border. If you come by van, you may have to walk 300 m from the van stops to the Vietnamese immigration post. From the VN immigration post, you will walk another 150 m to the Cambodian immigration checkpoint. The Cambodia post is in the middle of nowhere and there is no readily available transport of any kind. Ask the immigration police to help find one for you. Expect to pay the MAXIMUM of USD80 for the whole taxi car, and USD30 for a motorbike with driver. 2 to 2 and a half hours. Bargaining is a norm and please feel free to try. Although road #78 between the border and Ratanakiri's provincial capital Ban Lung (70 km) is under construction, most parts are still in bad conditions - it should be paved by 2009!.

Note again that we are 5 km before you reach Ban Lung to the left side on the road.

Tips for planning your overland trip to Ratanakiri and the northeast of Cambodia, and beyond :

1. If you plan for Ratanakiri, Stung Treng, and Kratie to be in your trip starting from Phnom Penh, it is suggested that you take a bus or van ride from Phnom Penh directly to Ratanakiri. This may be a very long journey but as you take this from the starting point in Phnom Penh, you have more chance to choose the better seat you want in the bus or van. Unless you have other reason, try to avoid taking the seats in the back row of the bus/van as it will mean bumpy ride for your next 600 km. Ask the ticket counter (or advise your hotel receptionist) for a seat plan and choose your favourite seat number accordingly when you buy ticket. (Many of our guests who took the bus from Kampong Cham or Kratie could not get the good seat in the already crowded bus from Phnom Penh. Some could not not even get the seat as the bus is full from Phnom Penh.)

On your way back from Ratanakiri, you can break up your trip at Stung Treng or Kratie as there is bus service starting from these two provinces.

2. If you add Mondul Kiri to the above plan, you should break your trip at Kratie town on your way back from Ratanakiri and approach Hua Lian bus company to arrange thru ticket from Kratie to Sen Monorom of Mondul Kiri on the next day. You will be dropped at Snuol district in time to catch the Mondul Kiri bus from Phnom Penh. “New” : Hualian bus company jusy suspended its service between Phnom Penh and Mondulkiri. In this case, travellers from Ratanakiri to Mondulkiri have to take taxi or van or pick up truck from Kratie town to Snuol, and then connect with taxi or pick up truck from there.

3. If you plan to travel from Ratanakiri to Siem Reap, the bus connection point should be in Kampong Cham with overnight. GST bus company and Phnom Penh Sorya bus have regular daily service between Kg Cham and Siem Reap departing around 7 am. and arriving Siem Reap around mid-day.

4. Bangkok-Ubon Ratchathani (in northeastern Thailand)-Pakse&4000 islands (in southern Lao)-Stung Treng-Ratanakiri-Phnom Penh-Siem Reap : This innovative route was carried out by many of our guests who are not fans of backtracking. From Bangkok, take train, or bus, or plane ( www.airasia.com and www.thaiairways.com ) to Ubon and cross into Lao at Chongmek/Vangtao crossing. Four departures daily of direct bus from Ubon to Pakse are available from Ubon bus terminal. From Pakse, travel to 4000-island and cross into Stung Treng of Cambodia (see above). Cambodian visa is available at Dong Kralor crossing at US$30.-. Bring some photos.

If you arrive Ban Lung (Ratanakiri's provincial capital) by plane, and have already informed us in advance, our staff should be waiting for you at the airport. Just look for a person the sign of our place's name.

If you will arrive Ban Lung by bus or tourist van, please kindly call us (Tel 011-725881, 011-790510, 016-490486) ONE day before regarding the name of bus or van company you are going to take. This will help us in arranging pick up as those buses/vans have different stop places in Ban Lung. If you could not find our staff meeting you at the bus/van station ( as arrival time of bus/van can differ from day to day), show the same telephone number above to the bus/van company or driver and ask them to call us. Our staff person should be there at the station in 15 minutes.

If you arrive Ban Lung by overland transport from Stung Treng, Kratie, Phnom Penh or Mondulkiri; please tell the driver to drop you at our place. Our place is located just 5 km east of town on national road number 78 (road to Vietnam).

SOME VAN DRIVERS (ESPECIALLY FROM PHNOM PENH, STUNG TRENG AND KRATIE) TEND TO DROP FOREIGN TOURISTS AT THEIR (CONTRACTED) HOTELS IN TOWN FOR COMMISSION! YOU MIGHT ALSO HEAR INFO ABOUT OUR PLACE LIKE : TOO FAR AWAY, VERY BAD ROAD, NO SECURITY, FULLY BOOKED, OR EVEN NO EXISTENCE OF OUR PLACE, ETC. FROM THESE PEOPLE. PLEASE DISREGARD WHAT THEY SAY AND INSIST THE DRIVER TO DROP YOU AT OUR PLACE.

If you fail to convince the driver, please ask him to drop you at the taxi station, then call us from the Hangmeas Phone Shop (or any telephone booth nearby) just opposite the station at Tel. 011-725881, 011-790510, or 097-6999146, and we will send our Jeep to pick you up. (Phone charge should be at 500 riel or about 12 cents per minute.) SOME OF OUR GUESTS HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN INSISTING THE VAN DRIVER TO DROP THEM AT OUR PLACE, BY NOT PAYING THE FARE IN BAN LUNG UNLESS BEING DROPPED AT YAKLOM HILL LODGE. THIS IS LOGICAL AS IT IS COMMON FOR THESE TAXIS TO PICK UP PASSENGERS AT THE LODGE WITHOUT HESITATION! If you want to go to our place by yourself from town, get one motor bike taxi (motodup) near the market, with the fare 5000-6000 riel per person. Have a look at :

http://iguide.travel/illustrations/Banlung-2.png for our location in the map. We are located to the right of the Yaklom traffic circle (with hill tribe monuments).

http://www.canbypublications.com/maps/banlungmap.htm for our location on the map. We are only 1 km from the hill tribe monument (Yaklom roundabout).

If you want to get some orientation in Ban Lung, please look at the following Ban Lung city map : http://iguide.travel/illustrations/Banlung-1.png

Something you should bring and something you should know :

Some listed materials can be found in Ban Lung market. But if you want to be ready with your personal or favourite ones, then you may have to bring them with you.

1. Clothes : You may not need so beautiful dresses in Ratanakiri. Get something ready for the red dust in the dry season (Dec-May), and something ready for the red mud in the wet season (late May-October).
2. Clothes : Make sure you bring trousers, socks, and long-sleeve shirt to cover your skin, and keep mosquitoes away from your skin. Late Nov-early Feb may be a little bit cool and windy.
3. Hat and Sun Block cream : The Cambodian krama can also help keep your neck from sun burning.
4. Mosquito repellent : Or some other things to help keep mosquitoes away from you when you are outdoor.
5. Torch : Or other convenient lighting gears.
6. Mask : To get ready for the red dust in town if you come to Ratanakiri in dry season (Dec-Apr) and get around on the bike or on foot. (Yaklom Hill Lodge is in the dust-free zone.)
7. Rain coat : Your favourite one if you plan to visit Ratanakiri in the rainy season (approximately from May/June to October)
8. Sleeping Bag/Hammock : If you plan for trekking and spend night(s) in the jungle or village, you may need this. Make sure that it comes with mosquito net.
9. Lots of books : If you just want to chill out on your lazy days here in our lodge. We also have a very small collection of books (most donated/left behind by our guests) which you may want to swop!
10. Motorcycling : Traffic in Ratanakiri is very light, even in Ban Lung. However, as in other parts of Cambodia, people still have little idea on traffic rules. This makes driving in Ratanakiri a bit tricky. The red soil there is also very tricky and unbelievably slippery when wet, and heavily dusty when dry that could make your way invisible for some time when you have passing traffic! SO BE CAREFUL.
11. Ethnic belief : Ethnic minorities or hilltribes in Ratanakiri have animistic belief. They believe in spiritual influence in their lives and so in agricultural practices. Hence, many taboos during various ceremonies are common. During some ceremonies (e.g. village sacrifice ceremonies), outsiders are prohibited to enter the village, or face heavy fine. PLEASE do respect this traditional belief of people and behave accordingly. Look out for some signs (such as live tree leaves hanging in front of village entrance or house). Check more with your local guide.
12. Taking pictures of people or places in hill tribe villages : Make sure that you GET permission from the villagers (through your guide or through your common sense). Failure to do this, you may end up being fined by the villagers (from something to a buffalo!) because what you just did is considered taboo to them or disturbs the spirit! Getting permission is one way of expressing your respect to where you visit.